Smithfields

Location: Ashland, Oregon

Food: American/Barbecue

Close to: Oregon Shakespeare Festival, Oregon Cabaret Theatre

Smithfields’ slogan is “Meat-centric,” but this isn’t an ordinary barbecue joint. Located on a steep hill near the historic Ashland Springs Hotel, Smithfields takes a modern upscale approach to the art of meat. Their menu features some of the great American classics, transformed through careful attention to ingredient quality and the cooking process. Even in a city filled with excellent restaurants, Smithfields stands as one of the most interesting and unique.

The entree menu at Smithfields is split between “Meat,” cuts of meat largely allowed to stand by themselves, and “Developed,” which includes familiar American meat entrees as well as innovative new dishes. Standing out in the former section is a 10-ounce brisket ($17) and a perfectly cooked half roast chicken, served with lemon and thyme ($18). Like many steakhouses, Smithfields offers add-on sides and sauces if you want a particular flavor experience with your meal.

The “Developed” menu boasts some equally outstanding food. The fried chicken, served with chive mashed potatoes and crimini mushroom gravy ($16), hides juicy chicken meat within a crisp, well-seasoned coating. Pork belly is common on the menu in modern eateries; Smithfields’ variation ($26) uses the tangy flavor of apples both as a sauce and as a robust chutney served alongside the thick-cut pork. Chewy bacon-braised collard greens round out the flavors of the dish. Even the vegetarian option is excellent: A goat cheese soufflé ($18) that accentuates the delicacy of the cheese with the earthy sweetness of beets.

While you’re waiting for your meal, you may want to take advantage of Smithfields’ extensive bar, which has dozens of varieties of whiskey in addition to several signature cocktails. There are plenty of appetizers to choose from as well, including a fresh-baked loaf of bread with seeds and cracked pepper ($3) and a charcuterie board ($18). (Bread is on the menu because your meals are served with complimentary cayenne popcorn.) If you have room for dessert, try the peanut butter and chocolate cheesecake ($8), an incredibly rich concoction that makes use of honeycomb to add a layer of crunch to its thick, creamy filling.

Smithfields provides an impactful eating experience that appeals to many tastes. Whether you’re looking for something upscale without the frills, want to make an event out of an evening, or simply like eating delicious food, Smithfields has excellent options for you. 

Eureka!

Location: Several places; location reviewed is in Berkeley, CA

Food: American

Close To: Berkeley Rep, The Marsh

In many ways, the small chain of Eureka! restaurants scattered across the West Coast resembles the Ashland eatery Smithfield’s, which I reviewed here. Both restaurants elevate classic American dishes with upscale ingredients and bold flavors, sport a minimalist, masculine atmosphere, and feature a wide selection of whiskies at the bar. But, while Smithfield’s concentrates on a variety of meat dishes, Eureka! focuses on the classic American meal: The hamburger.

Eureka!’s enticing hamburgers range from the classic setup of lettuce, tomatoes, and pickles to the Bone Marrow Burger, topped with a bone marrow porcini butter that’s so popular it usually sells out by the end of the day. My personal favorite options are the Bison Burger, which combines hot jalapeño jam with the complex sweetness of grilled bell peppers on a lean bison patty, and the Cowboy Burger, an indulgent delight with bacon, cheddar, and barbecue sauce. The restaurant will accept most substitutions, so feel free to ask for different ingredients on a burger if what’s on the menu don’t quite suit your fancy.

Though burgers are the main focus at Eureka!, there are many other excellent options. Appetizers include Eureka!’s signature mac n’ cheese balls, Polish sausage lollipop corn dogs, and even ceviche. Other entrée items are also available, like orange-chili pork ribs and a selection of tacos. Not to be missed is a unique ginger-lime soda that provides the perfect combination of tartness and heat. Sweet potato fries are available with your burger, but Eureka!’s unique version comes covered in cinnamon and honey, accentuating the sweet potatoes in a way that’s almost dessert-like. And speaking of desserts, there’s only one on the menu: A warm, moist, unbelievably rich bourbon barrel cake served with caramel sauce and a big scoop of ice cream.

Most Eureka! restaurants are open late enough for you to catch dinner either before or after a show, and several are walking distance from theatrical venues. Eureka! is refined comfort food at its finest: The favorites you grew up with, given just enough of a twist to make them a new experience.

Cafeteria 15L

Location: Sacramento

Food: American

Nearby: Sacramento Theatre Company, Capital Stage Company

Cafeteria 15L, located close to the State Capitol and the Sacramento Convention Center, deserves praise for a number of reasons: Friendly staff, a beautiful interior, and a varied drink menu. However, this modern American eatery stands out most for its across-the-board quality of its food.

When I recommend a restaurant, I usually point out a particular dish that excels from among the restaurant’s menu. Doing so with Cafeteria 15L’s offerings would be almost unfair – in fact, it offers so many good choices I would suggest you go there at least twice during a trip to Sacramento. There is no way to experience all this restaurant has to offer in just one visit.

One can judge an American restaurant by the quality of its burgers, and Cafeteria 15L’s do not disappoint. These thick and juicy burgers (starting at $10.95) are cooked perfectly, and come with several topping options that include the always-welcome choice of goat cheese. Also available is a grilled ham and cheese sandwich ($11.95), which makes excellent decisions as to its bread and cheese, though it may be too buttery for some people. The tomato soup served alongside the sandwich is tangy and comforting without being too rich.

Like many modern diners, you have the option of ordering your burger or sandwich with mixed greens instead of fries – don’t take this for granted! The greens are paired with a tart champagne vinaigrette that enhances, but doesn’t overpower, their crisp sweetness. If you’re heart-set on fries, you can also order the greens as an appetizer salad, along with medjool dates, goat cheese, and candied pecans ($6.95). Also on the salad menu is the beet and pear salad ($8.95), which uses two varieties soft, brightly-colored beets for visual excellence as much as they are used for their delicious flavor.

Keeping in line with the Cafeteria's comfort food theme, entrees include a meatloaf ($16.95) and spaghetti and meatball ($15.95, dinner only, not a typo, it’s a huge meatball). The meatloaf doesn’t do anything astonishing with the format, but it falls apart to the fork, the generous helping of sweet and tangy sauce combining marvelously with the taste of the meat. The meatball is well-seasoned and not incredibly dense, working well with the tomato sauce and spaghetti.

The dessert menu puts simultaneously comforting and innovative spins on classic dishes. Cafeteria 15L’s crowning achievement is the Skillet S’mores ($6.95), which takes the uniquely American campfire dessert and spins it. Marshmallows, the basis of any good S’more, are layered over a chocolate brownie in a hot skillet and studded with chocolate and graham crackers. The result is a dessert that is light, rich, and satisfying, though it could have used a few more chocolate squares.

Cafeteria 15L is an excellent choice for people on an extended trip in Sacramento because of its across-the-board quality. If you’re staying at one of the nearby hotels, you can be assured that no matter what you order off the menu, you’re going to have an excellent meal.