Eureka!

Location: Several places; location reviewed is in Berkeley, CA

Food: American

Close To: Berkeley Rep, The Marsh

In many ways, the small chain of Eureka! restaurants scattered across the West Coast resembles the Ashland eatery Smithfield’s, which I reviewed here. Both restaurants elevate classic American dishes with upscale ingredients and bold flavors, sport a minimalist, masculine atmosphere, and feature a wide selection of whiskies at the bar. But, while Smithfield’s concentrates on a variety of meat dishes, Eureka! focuses on the classic American meal: The hamburger.

Eureka!’s enticing hamburgers range from the classic setup of lettuce, tomatoes, and pickles to the Bone Marrow Burger, topped with a bone marrow porcini butter that’s so popular it usually sells out by the end of the day. My personal favorite options are the Bison Burger, which combines hot jalapeño jam with the complex sweetness of grilled bell peppers on a lean bison patty, and the Cowboy Burger, an indulgent delight with bacon, cheddar, and barbecue sauce. The restaurant will accept most substitutions, so feel free to ask for different ingredients on a burger if what’s on the menu don’t quite suit your fancy.

Though burgers are the main focus at Eureka!, there are many other excellent options. Appetizers include Eureka!’s signature mac n’ cheese balls, Polish sausage lollipop corn dogs, and even ceviche. Other entrée items are also available, like orange-chili pork ribs and a selection of tacos. Not to be missed is a unique ginger-lime soda that provides the perfect combination of tartness and heat. Sweet potato fries are available with your burger, but Eureka!’s unique version comes covered in cinnamon and honey, accentuating the sweet potatoes in a way that’s almost dessert-like. And speaking of desserts, there’s only one on the menu: A warm, moist, unbelievably rich bourbon barrel cake served with caramel sauce and a big scoop of ice cream.

Most Eureka! restaurants are open late enough for you to catch dinner either before or after a show, and several are walking distance from theatrical venues. Eureka! is refined comfort food at its finest: The favorites you grew up with, given just enough of a twist to make them a new experience.

Flip

Location: Ashland, OR

Food: Hamburgers

Close To: Oregon Shakespeare Festival, Oregon Cabaret Theatre

Flip is the third of Jamie North’s Ashland culinary creations, after bakery Mix and fine dining establishment Amuse. This new burger joint, located in Agave’s former location on Main Street, is meant to capture the casual atmosphere of a diner while maintaining the level of edible excellence that has kept fast food out of Ashland for years. The small menu focuses on the basics: Burgers, fries, sodas, and shakes crafted to perfection.

You won’t find any main courses on the menu other than burgers ($6.95). However, for vegetarians, or those trying to eat a little leaner, Flip offers meatless (mushroom) and chicken burgers for the same price. All burgers come with lettuce, onion, and a kind of aioli called Flip Sauce. These ingredients enhance the protein texturally without overpowering its naturally delicious flavor.

When I received my French fries ($2.25 plus $.75 for dipping sauce), I was skeptical; they were thin-cut fries whereas I prefer larger steak fries. Most fries are monotonous in taste and are best when they have a thick, fluffy interior. Yet Flip competes on an entirely different level, bringing out a deep flavor I didn’t even realize was possible in a French fry. They work well dipped in the sauce (similar to what’s on the burger), in ketchup, or eaten on their own.

Flip’s attention to detail extends to its beverages. Rather than making deals with a big-name soda corporation, they exclusively stock sodas from Boylan Bottling Co., an old-fashioned soda company that has been in operation since 1891. The restaurant offers familiar flavors like cream soda, cola, root beer, and ginger ale.

For the truly indulgent looking for a milkshake to seal the deal, Flip offers unbelievably rich shakes and malts ($5.50) crafted using high-quality Straus Creamery ice cream. Although they offer vanilla and chocolate shakes year-round, their fruit flavors are dependent on what’s in season. In summer, look for a classic strawberry shake!

Flip is an elevated take on a burger joint that strives for quality in everything it makes. The difference between the restaurant and someplace that just adds a burger to its menu to please picky tourists is immediately noticeable as soon as you take a bite. With long open hours and relatively cheap prices, Flip is not to be missed.